Sunday, 11 August 2019

Your Guide to Japanese Knives

Japanese knives on a shelf.

Curious why Japanese knives are regarded as the finest culinary tools? Learn about the different types of knives used in Japanese cuisine and how they are made, so you can find the perfect one for you! Bonus tips: how to care and maintain the knives, and where to buy them.

Japanese knives on a shelf.

Japanese knives (Hōchō 包丁) have a cult following by chefs and passionate cooks around the world. With its world-renown reputation for outstanding and artisanal craftsmanship, you may also be dreaming of owning one or two yourselves.

Whether you cook Japanese cuisine or not, a beautifully crafted knife can make all the difference in your chopping skills and the final dish! But with all the varieties, brands and price ranges, finding the knife that fits you can seem like a daunting task.

To demystify the centuries-old legacy and romance that surrounds Japanese knives, here’s a guide to kick your interest in Japanese knives. After the end of the article, we hope you’ll find a knife (or two!) that best fits you!

The photos are from the Perfect Edge Cutlery, a knife shop based in San Mateo, specializing in Nami’s favorite Kikuichi knives. Thank you so much for your generosity!

Japanese knives on a shelf.

The History of Japanese Knives

The earliest artifacts of Japanese knives can be traced back to the Nara Era (710-794), which are displayed at the Shosoin 正倉院 (the Imperial Treasure House) in Nara prefecture. The blade and handles were long and narrow, 40cm in length and 2cm in width with a slight curve. It is said that this type of knives was used by the aristocracy for religious ceremonies. Called Hocho-shiki 包丁式 (literally “knife ceremony”), the knives were used to break down carps and cranes to the tune of music.

Unlike swords, which were considered family heirlooms and passed down generations, knives were everyday tools that with daily use, would disintegrate over time. Therefore, while there are no surviving artifacts of knives, there are plenty of written records, scroll paintings and drawings of knives.

[photo of Shosoin?]

Evolution Beyond Samurai Swords

When we speak of Japanese knives, it cannot be forgotten that it was greatly influenced by the technological development of Japanese swords. These swords called Katana 刀 were reserved only for the Samurai 武士, a military nobility serving a feudal lord. The creation of this class, followed by the demand for swords greatly boosted the production and development of blade technology.

During the tumulus feudal unrest of the Sengoku Era (1454-1573), the main sword production regions were located in Okayama, Kanagawa, Kyoto, Nara, and Gifu prefectures. Not coincidentally, the feudal warlords were the strongest in these five regions.

However, the demand decreased during the Edo Period (1603-1868), an era marked by relative peace and isolationism from the outside world. With the lack of warfare and battles, demand for kitchen knives and farming tools such as ax, saws, hatchets increased.

The creation and possession of weapons, including Katana were completely banned during the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Called the Sword Abolishment Edict (廃刀令), violators had their swords confiscated. This created unemployment for the sword-smiths and artisans.  

To withstand the change of time, many of these artisans switched from producing swords to kitchen and household blades. Some started creating superior products by applying their centuries-old knowledge of sword-making.  A well-known example is Sakai 堺, in Osaka. The area of Sakai had been producing blades from the Heian Era (794–1185) and was famous for their guns, swords, and tobacco cutting knives from the Muromachi Era (1336-1573). To this day, Sakai still produces high-quality Japanese knives and is highly respected by chefs worldwide. 

Japanese knives on a shelf.

Difference between Japanese and Western Knives

Material

Japanese knives are traditionally made with a type of carbon steel called Hagane 鋼. The blades are forged in multiple layers, with a brittle carbon steel core and a softer iron steel outer layer. This combination results in an extremely sharp edge, similar to a Japanese sword. Hagane is not as hard as stainless steel and can chip from tough fish bones and rust from residual bits of food or droplets of water on the blade. Thus, professional chefs rigorously maintain their knives to avoid dull and rust.

Western knives and Japanese knives for household use are made of stainless steel, which are much easier to maintain and durable. They are rust and corrosion resistant, and suitable for those who like to forgo the frequent maintenance of a Hagane knife. Note that stainless steel knives are not inferior to Hagane, it has the perks of retaining its sharp edge and is easier to sharpen.

Bevel

Traditional Japanese knives are characterized by its single-bevel blade, a sharpened edge on one side of the blade surface and the other side completely straight. This edge makes it ideal for precise slicing motions; picture the Samurai action scene where he cuts down his foes in an up to down diagonal motion. When sharpening the blade, you sharpen just the one side. However, single-beveled knives are made for right-handed users, so lefties need a leftie knife, which can be expensive.

Western knives, on the other hand, are double-beveled. Most double beveled blades have a V-shaped blade edge. While not made for high precision cuts, it’s much easier to sharpen.

Varieties of Japanese Knives

The realm of Japanese knives are expansive, but not to worry! The every day Japanese cook will have one or two of the basic knives, whereas the specific purpose knives are primarily for chefs. But for those who are curious, here’s a list of Japanese knives you may encounter at a Japanese knife shop.

The Basic Knives

Nakiri Knife - Your Guide to Japanese Knives #japan #knife | Easy Japanese Recipes at JustOneCookbook.com

An Usuba (above) and Nakiri (below) knives

1. Nakiri-bouchou (菜切り包丁)

For peeling, chopping, and slicing vegetables. The blade is thin, straight and double-beveled. Kanto knives are rectangular, whereas Kansai knives are rounded at the tip. It has a blade length of 240-300mm. It’s easier to sharpen than an Usuba and cheaper. 

2. Usuba-boucho (薄刃包丁)

Similar to a Nakiri, but single-beveled. The blade edge is much thinner than a Nakiri, which makes it excellent for paper-thin slices and decorative cuts. Chefs prefer the Usuba over the Nakiri for its precision, but for beginners, it’s a challenge to sharpen the delicate blade.

3. Deba-boucho (出刃包丁)

For gutting, descaling, and breaking down fish. It has a chunkier blade to withstand cutting thick fish bones. It comes in 3 sizes, for different sizes of fish. Kodeba 子出刃 has a blade length of 90-120mm, Hondeba 本出刃 is the standard size around 210mm, Miokoshi Deba 身卸し出刃包丁 is 180-270mm in length. 

4. Santoku Knife (三徳包丁)

Literally “three virtues,” it’s named from being an all-rounder for meat, fish, and vegetables. The knife was created around the Meiji era when western cuisine popularized among the Japanese people and the distinction of western and Japanese cuisine blurred. Nowadays, most Japanese families forgo the Deba and Usuba for one Santoku knife. 

Specialty Knives

5. Yanagiba-bouchou (柳刃包丁)

A knife for slicing blocks of raw fish for sashimi. It has a long and slim blade, and curved at the blade tip. Used primarily in the Kansai region.

6. Takohiki-bouchou (蛸引き包丁)

Similar to a Yanagiba, but rectangular in shape. Used primarily in the Kanto region.

7. Fugu-hiki (河豚引き)

Similar to a Yanagiba, but with a narrower and thinner blade. Used specifically for slicing Fugu (puffer fish).

8. Honegiri-bouchou (骨切り包丁) or Hamogiri (鱧切)

Use to cut the long and sharp bones of pike conger and fat greenling filet without cutting through to the skin. Heavy and straight edged for precise cuts to crushing the bones.

Menkiri Boucho (Noodle Cutting Knife) - Your Guide to Japanese Knives #japan #knife | Easy Japanese Recipes at JustOneCookbook.com

A Menkiri knife

9. Menkiri Knife (麺切り包丁)

For making straight cuts for udon and soba noodles. Heavy with a straight edge, it looks like a cleaver with the blade extending all the way to the handle.

Japanese knives on a shelf.

What kind of knife should I buy?

Now that you’ve learned about the different types and are interested to invest in a Japanese knife, which one should you get?

To begin, there is no such thing as “the best knife.” Many Just One Cookbook readers have asked Nami for her recommendation, and she recommends the brand Kikuchi (often featured in her videos). However, if you wish to purchase a high-quality Japanese knife, I suggest doing research beforehand to find the perfect one for you.

First, I cannot stress enough the importance of physically handling the knives yourself. Never buy knives online without trying it, regardless of the price. If you’re at a reputable knife shop (Japan or abroad), try holding several different types and brands. The knife shop may direct you to knives based on your interest and price range. If possible, ask if the shop has a carrot or something to test the blade.

An anecdote: When I started culinary school in Tokyo, we were given a set of both Western and Japanese knives (Sakai knives, for those curious). While the knives were of high quality, I found some difficult to use as the blades were huge and the grip uncomfortable in my small hands (I have really short fingers and small palms). When I started working in kitchens after graduating, I went to a knife shop and after consulting with the shop owner, was recommended a 22cm stainless steel Santoku knife. Not only did I cut myself less often 😅, I felt much comfortable wielding the blade and saw a great improvement in my chopping skills. While I do not work in kitchens nowadays, I use this knife daily and is much happier with the experience overall.

A Quick Guide on Choosing the Right Knife:

When browsing for knives at a shop, it may be helpful to ask yourself the following questions:

  • Grip: How does the grip feel when you’re holding it? Is it too thick or thin that the tips of your fingers awkwardly bump into each other when gripping the handle?
  • Weight: Does the blade feel too heavy or too light? Assume that you may be holding the knife for 10-15 minutes, will your hands get tired from the weight? Or do you prefer a knife with some heaviness?
  • Length: Is the blade too long or short? People with smaller hands should use knives with a smaller blade, for instance.
  • Material: Do you prefer a blade made of Hagane or stainless steel? As mentioned above, Hagane requires frequent maintenance whereas stainless steel holds its sharpness and is easier to care for.
  • Craftsmanship: Overall, do you trust the craftsmanship? Cheaper blades are made in China and are mass produced.
  • Overall: Do you like the design and look of the knife? While aesthetics will not make a difference in your knife skills, you should pick one that you like!

Japanese knives on a shelf.

How to Care and Maintain Your Knife

Following the investment of your knife (or knives), you should also seriously consider its maintenance. While this is understandably difficult for the everyday cook, taking great care of them is critically important for its lifespan. Sharpened knives will naturally dull with use, and depending on the material, may rust. While this may be a pain, treat your knives like musical instruments, which needs fine tuning and check-ups from time to time.

Never use a knife sharpener (the ones that you drag the blade across). Not only does that whittle down the blade, but the friction can also cause strain. Majority of these knife sharpeners are made for the double-bladed Western knives anyway, and not made for Japanese knives. Same with the honing steel, this is only for Western knives. Contrary to popular belief, this does not sharpen a dull blade, it only aligns a bent out edge. Thus, honing makes sense only if you had already sharpened the blade.

Depending on the frequency, you may need to sharpen your knives every 1-2 weeks. To check the sharpness of your knife, do the paper test: hold the corner of a sheet of paper with your other hand, and lightly drag your knife across it. If the cut is smooth without dragging, your knife is sharp. Or you can try slicing a tomato: if you can cut through the skin and flesh without crushing the fruit with ease, your knife is ready to go.

Option 1: Sharpen it yourself

The best is to buy a whetstone and learn how to sharpen yourself. There are online tutorials on YouTube on how to sharpen your knife, but for beginners, it could be rather nerve-wracking! Solution? Look for a knife sharpening workshop or ask if someone could teach you how. To sharpen, start with a 100o grit stone. If you wish to fine tune your blade, polish with a higher grit stone above a 4000 grit. You should also buy a rust eraser to remove rust and stubborn stains.

Option 2: Outsource the task

The alternative is to take your knives to a reputable knife shop to have it professionally sharpened and polished. This routine may be bothersome, but you have the satisfaction knowing that your knives are returned razor sharp.

Where to Buy Japanese Knives

If you’re visiting Japan, check out Kappabashi (for everything kitchen and restaurant supplies related) in Tokyo, Sennichimae Doguyasuji (similar to Kappabashi) in Osaka, various department stores, or seek direct sellers of knife brands. Hope your journey to your one and only knife a rewarding adventure!  

Lastly, thank you [knife shop name] for kindly allowing us to take photos of their knives. They are located in [address] and are happy to help you find the knife of your dreams. Do check them out should you be in the area!

Japanese knives on a shelf.